Goin’ Surfin

We’re taking a trip once again, off the cartpath, to a new experience with nature and perhaps my biggest challenge yet. Surfing. Balance during motion has never been my gift: train rides, boat rides, airplanes—you’ll rarely see me walking around without grasping something at some point to stay upright. So the prospect of standing up on a board while it’s gliding across the water definitely is out of my comfort zone. But I want to unlock and understand my limitations or fears and grow out of the mindset that “it’s not my thing.” I know I can do that, because I’ve conquered many fears and challenges through life already, this is just one more to add to the list. I’m also motivated because my son has picked up the ability to sail on the waves rather easily; I want to share the water experiences with him, but I’m definitely playing from behind in this game.

My son and I have crafted a routine through the spring of waking up early on Saturdays, taking the 15 minute drive down to the Pacific, and getting a solid hour of surfing in. It’s great exercise and I’m glad he’s taken a liking to it, because there’s so many lessons in the water to learn. Last week, I got tossed around by the “old man in the sea” like a rag doll, specifically “Raggedy Andy”, as my mom used to call me when I was a little boy. I mean, I had no flow, no oneness with the water; no balance. I was humbled, but not deterred. The ocean is an amazing creature, filled with life and serenity below the surface, with tremendous force and energy rushing through the waves up top. It will mess you up if you don’t respect it. Despite my performance I was eager to get back out there and try again. I checked the surf report all week to monitor conditions, I was mostly ready. But I had to do one more thing before heading out for redemption….watch Point Break.

I try to expose my kids to all the “great movies” of the 80’s and 90’s—this way we can share quotes and jokes and have our own language with each other—I love it and I think they do too! So my son and I took in the 2 hours of the surfer bank robber story and Patrick Swayze being a warrior poet. I was paying attention in a different way during this viewing, trying to glean some insight into the mind and spirit of the surfer. I needed to understand the block to my connection with the water; I was curious why I couldn’t I keep my balance. I had my moment, when I realized I was like those struggling golfers that I see all day on my golf course. Rigid with the motion of the swing, fighting against the movement of their body as they try so hard to hit the ball straight. Contrasted with my trained swing, that without fear or hesitation I’m able to flowingly swing the club and send the ball obediently in the direction I desire (most of the time!!). When Swayze/Bode says in the movie, “you have to lose yourself, to find yourself.” It reinforced to me that I had to lose MY rigidness on the board, release the fear of failing and allow the flow of confidence and ease. Instead of feeling like I was fightin against the water, I had to find my peace and oneness with the board (life) I had to allow and feel guided by the water (GOD)…there’s so much to unpack in this statement, I don’t have the space for it, but it will be a recurring theme, as it has become the foundation upon which I’m building my life…

Morning was here, so I loaded up the truck, did some focused stretching and intentional breathing (this stuff works!) to get into the right head space for this surf session. I had the intention of “letting go”, there would be no hesitation on the water today. “Hesitation leads to our fears coming true, “ to paraphrase Swayze one more time. The skies at the beach were a little gray as we headed towards the coast, typical for this time of year as the sun takes it time to make its dramatic entrance into the day a little bit later in the morning. The waves were rolling in steadily as scores of eager surfers were awaiting their next opportunity to catch the next swell. Feeling confident I paddled out, observing and embracing the rhythm of the waves. I was feeling more connected to the water and on my first set I was able to pop up and ride! Trying to stay loose and cool I rode the wave in until its energy released to the shore. To be transparent and honest, this wave was like cruising down your most basic bunny hill on the ski slopes. But to me, I had conquered the black diamond—with moguls!! We finished off the morning with a couple more good sets and it was back to the house for some eggs and chocolate chip pancakes.

What a way to start the day and what a blessing to get out into the water, feel humbled by the forces of nature while also connecting to them. I’m starting to understand this surfing thing. I’m not great at the action part yet but I’m embracing the spirit of it. Its a reminder that we need to exit our comfort zones, allow our self to fall, free yourself from the struggle and be guided back to shore to where the grass is gree….wait there is no grass at the beach. Well, you know what I mean.

My big banana boat of a surfboard